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AUDI A4 | B5 | 8D 1996 - 2001 FAQ Frequently Asked Questions and Common Problems Thread Collection
02-16-2006, 03:04 PM
#414
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Oil Cooler Install with a FMIC (tech section)
this is in the tech section..
Say thank you to PtBy for this wonderfull write-up.<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2496283.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2496283.phtml</a</li></ul>
Say thank you to PtBy for this wonderfull write-up.<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2496283.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2496283.phtml</a</li></ul>
02-17-2006, 05:32 AM
#415
more write-ups...
courtesy of markp
<a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/s4/msgs/2260098.phtml">s4 front</a>
<a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/s4/msgs/2264230.phtml">s4 rear</a>
they should be very similar to the A4 quattro.
<a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/s4/msgs/2260098.phtml">s4 front</a>
<a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/s4/msgs/2264230.phtml">s4 rear</a>
they should be very similar to the A4 quattro.
02-22-2006, 07:02 AM
#416
When a Timing Belt Breaks. . .
or the belt tensioner fails, B5 engines will suffer catastrophic failure. This is because, like many modern engines, they are "interference" engines, meaning that the valves and the piston occupy the same space in the cylinder/combustion chamber, but not at the same time. That means that the timing has to be right, or close to right, so that the piston is not at top dead center when a valve is open. If the timing belt breaks or loses tension, the piston(s) will collide with one or more valves.
In the best case, this will result in some or most of the valves being bent. Replacing the valves in the cylinder head is not a major job, but, to be done right, the valve seals should be replaced for the damaged valves and the valve seats machined. Some repair shops that don't know much about Audis will try to get away with just replacing the valves. Doing it right doesn't cost much more, but your mechanic must have access to an experienced machine shop. Think $1000+.
The worst case often occurs when the failure happens at high speed or when the owner tries to restart the vehicle after it has shut down. In those cases, a valve may snap or a small piece may break off the valve. The metal piece bouncing around will damage the piston and/or the cylinder wall and/or the combustion chamber, and that means it will be time for a new "long block" (not quite a whole engine, but close to it). Buying a used engine will save some money, but this will be an expensive repair. Think $4000+.
Your best bet is to deal with an indy mechanic who specializes in VW/Audi and has done this work before. An Audi dealer would be fine, but you'll end up paying a lot more for the job. Reports on AW indicate that some dealers will only use the long block solution regardless of the actual damage. Do not go with someone who does not routinely work on Audi cars. Among other things, they won't have the proper tools to do the job, particularly the specific <b><i>polydrive</i></b> bit (looks a lot like a torx, but isn't) shown below that's needed to remove and reinstall the cylinder head bolts.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/73690/polydrive_bit.jpg" border="0" alt="Polydrive Bit">
Information for this article was supplied by Anand Dhanda of Induktion Motorsports based on their experiences with these failures.
In the best case, this will result in some or most of the valves being bent. Replacing the valves in the cylinder head is not a major job, but, to be done right, the valve seals should be replaced for the damaged valves and the valve seats machined. Some repair shops that don't know much about Audis will try to get away with just replacing the valves. Doing it right doesn't cost much more, but your mechanic must have access to an experienced machine shop. Think $1000+.
The worst case often occurs when the failure happens at high speed or when the owner tries to restart the vehicle after it has shut down. In those cases, a valve may snap or a small piece may break off the valve. The metal piece bouncing around will damage the piston and/or the cylinder wall and/or the combustion chamber, and that means it will be time for a new "long block" (not quite a whole engine, but close to it). Buying a used engine will save some money, but this will be an expensive repair. Think $4000+.
Your best bet is to deal with an indy mechanic who specializes in VW/Audi and has done this work before. An Audi dealer would be fine, but you'll end up paying a lot more for the job. Reports on AW indicate that some dealers will only use the long block solution regardless of the actual damage. Do not go with someone who does not routinely work on Audi cars. Among other things, they won't have the proper tools to do the job, particularly the specific <b><i>polydrive</i></b> bit (looks a lot like a torx, but isn't) shown below that's needed to remove and reinstall the cylinder head bolts.
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/73690/polydrive_bit.jpg" border="0" alt="Polydrive Bit">
Information for this article was supplied by Anand Dhanda of Induktion Motorsports based on their experiences with these failures.
02-28-2006, 11:40 AM
#417
A6 rear brake upgrade. (wiki)
only for quattro cars.
the use of B6 A4 rear caliper carriers and A6 255x10mm SOLID rear rotors. stock rear rotors are 245x10mm.
Parts, including replacement hardware:
BRAKE DISC 4B0 615 601 B 255x10 (1.5" offset) (A6) 2
CALIPER CARRIER 8E0 615 425 A caliper bracket (B6 A4) 2
LOWER BOLT N 101 815 02 M10x40 (caliper carrier to hub) 2
UPPER BOLT N 102 409 01 M10x60 (caliper carrier to hub) 2
SELF-LOCKING BOLT 321 615 141 M8x21 (caliper to carrier) 4<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2433267.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2433267.phtml</a</li></ul>
the use of B6 A4 rear caliper carriers and A6 255x10mm SOLID rear rotors. stock rear rotors are 245x10mm.
Parts, including replacement hardware:
BRAKE DISC 4B0 615 601 B 255x10 (1.5" offset) (A6) 2
CALIPER CARRIER 8E0 615 425 A caliper bracket (B6 A4) 2
LOWER BOLT N 101 815 02 M10x40 (caliper carrier to hub) 2
UPPER BOLT N 102 409 01 M10x60 (caliper carrier to hub) 2
SELF-LOCKING BOLT 321 615 141 M8x21 (caliper to carrier) 4<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2433267.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2433267.phtml</a</li></ul>
Last edited by myers1.8TQ; 04-13-2009 at 07:28 AM.
03-03-2006, 09:30 PM
#419
APR compared to a stock exhaust
APR is supposed to be almost as quiet as Milltek for a bit less money. I didn't want a loud exhaust, so I got it.
At idle and low RPMs, the APR has a deeper tone than stock. I'd compare the pitch of the sound to tire noise from a moderately loud tire brand. With the radio on, you won't notice it at all. From the outside standing at the driver's door, the engine noise covers the exhaust noise.
As the RPMs increase above 3000, the tone seems to go up a bit in pitch. Again, I didn't find this to be a problem.
The butt dyno readings suggest that the bigger pipe costs you a bit of low end torque. If there's much gain at the high end, my butt dyno couldn't really detect it, but I don't push to redline much.
The tail pipes are larger than stock (obviously) and larger than the "Polished Stainless Steel Tail Pipe Embellishers" that Audi sells for just under $50. I think I would have preferred something a bit more subdued, but most people will like the look; it's clear that it's not the stock exhaust.
A final benefit is that the grease fitting on the rear H-Sport antisway bar that wouldn't clear the old stock exhaust could go back in the bar and clears fine with the APR.
If you're staying with the stock turbo, aren't dying to have a sportier exhaust sound, and don't have a H-Sport antisway, maybe the $50 tips will do and will save you $850 in the long run. I like my new exhaust, but it's not close to being my favorite mod.
At idle and low RPMs, the APR has a deeper tone than stock. I'd compare the pitch of the sound to tire noise from a moderately loud tire brand. With the radio on, you won't notice it at all. From the outside standing at the driver's door, the engine noise covers the exhaust noise.
As the RPMs increase above 3000, the tone seems to go up a bit in pitch. Again, I didn't find this to be a problem.
The butt dyno readings suggest that the bigger pipe costs you a bit of low end torque. If there's much gain at the high end, my butt dyno couldn't really detect it, but I don't push to redline much.
The tail pipes are larger than stock (obviously) and larger than the "Polished Stainless Steel Tail Pipe Embellishers" that Audi sells for just under $50. I think I would have preferred something a bit more subdued, but most people will like the look; it's clear that it's not the stock exhaust.
A final benefit is that the grease fitting on the rear H-Sport antisway bar that wouldn't clear the old stock exhaust could go back in the bar and clears fine with the APR.
If you're staying with the stock turbo, aren't dying to have a sportier exhaust sound, and don't have a H-Sport antisway, maybe the $50 tips will do and will save you $850 in the long run. I like my new exhaust, but it's not close to being my favorite mod.
03-03-2006, 10:38 PM
#420
Windshield Replacement
I recently had to have the windshield replaced. Here's what I learned from searching on the topic and from having the replacement done.
Windshield glass can come from a number of different manufacturers:
PPG (Pittsburgh Plate Glass)
LOF (Libby Owens Ford)
Safelite
OEM
Unfortunately, OEM can mean anything from something made for VW-Audi with the four rings on it to a manufacturer who has once provided glass to some car manufacturer. If you hear OEM, ask what brand that means.
Generally, AW users have recommended PPG glass. That's what I went with.
First, talk to your insurance company. Most have reduced deductables for windshield repair, and often will recommend (or insist you use) a particular glass shop. My insurance recommended a Safelite shop, and that was fine with me as long as they could provide the PPG glass, which they did. The claims agent seemed surprised that I'd want PPG rather than OEM glass, but was happy to try to accommodate me.
The glass is marked "PPG Sunshade Solex Duplate." That means, among other things, that it has the tinted strip at the top of the windshield. An old post suggests that the PPG marking in the middle of the bottom of the windshield is annoying. I guess PPG agreed, because the marking is now at the bottom of the windshield in the corner on the passenger side.
Make sure you get an Audi OEM molding. The sealant is also important, which is why you need a glass shop you (or your insurance company) can trust. The Safelite shop warned me several times that the sealant took 2 days to cure, and the windshield might pop out if I was in an accident before curing was fully complete.
The bill for the replacement was $210.48 for parts and $120 for labor. I was pleased with the results. No distortion, no leaks. The glass seems a bit thicker than the original OEM glass.
Windshield glass can come from a number of different manufacturers:
PPG (Pittsburgh Plate Glass)
LOF (Libby Owens Ford)
Safelite
OEM
Unfortunately, OEM can mean anything from something made for VW-Audi with the four rings on it to a manufacturer who has once provided glass to some car manufacturer. If you hear OEM, ask what brand that means.
Generally, AW users have recommended PPG glass. That's what I went with.
First, talk to your insurance company. Most have reduced deductables for windshield repair, and often will recommend (or insist you use) a particular glass shop. My insurance recommended a Safelite shop, and that was fine with me as long as they could provide the PPG glass, which they did. The claims agent seemed surprised that I'd want PPG rather than OEM glass, but was happy to try to accommodate me.
The glass is marked "PPG Sunshade Solex Duplate." That means, among other things, that it has the tinted strip at the top of the windshield. An old post suggests that the PPG marking in the middle of the bottom of the windshield is annoying. I guess PPG agreed, because the marking is now at the bottom of the windshield in the corner on the passenger side.
Make sure you get an Audi OEM molding. The sealant is also important, which is why you need a glass shop you (or your insurance company) can trust. The Safelite shop warned me several times that the sealant took 2 days to cure, and the windshield might pop out if I was in an accident before curing was fully complete.
The bill for the replacement was $210.48 for parts and $120 for labor. I was pleased with the results. No distortion, no leaks. The glass seems a bit thicker than the original OEM glass.
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